Back on the Nile Special

After being back for a few weeks, I was finally able to make it back down to the Special for some big water play. It was great to get back on the wave and have some relaxing island dwelling with some friends. After a full day of work, I cruised down to Steve’s island and floated downstream for a sunset session on the Special. The next day consisted of chilling in the hammock, fishing for our 6 kg Nile Perch lunch, kayaking, and coming back to Jinja to organize for Timmy’s Biathlon Island Bender on Saturday. The biathlon bender was a great hit. It started with a day 2 trip down to Steve’s island; we had 2 rafts, plenty of kayakers, and any other type of watercraft found at the Jinja market (i.e. inflatable dolphin or whale). We had some good laughs on the river, then arrived at Steve’s island for a few rounds of croquet, swimming, and plenty of laughs and boos. As we watched the sunset, we all packed up for a quick float down to the Hairy Lemon for round two of the bender. I put on my dancing shoes and had a good time. Now I am back to work. It was good to get away for a long weekend of distraction. Hopefully more time will come soon.

7000 Mosquito Nets

This was another typical week of family planning and malaria education sessions, and all the other random things that come up when managing a rural health clinic. However, after all these net sales, the shed was starting to look a bit empty. Although I was not involved much in the logistics of getting the nets from India, we have been on call for the last few days. After getting shipped to Mombasa, we were not sure whether it would be a road trip to the Kenyan border or to Kampala to pick up the 140 heavy bundles of nets. It was an entertaining day to say the least. We packed up the Crusier and another Delica and started heading to Kampala after being told the nets would be ready on Thursday. However, we got another call saying they were not ready yet but needed to get out of the Kampala warehouse as soon as possible. Instead of making the long drive, we sat around on call, until the woman finally called at 4:00 PM saying they were ready and must be picked up now. She did not seem to understand we were coming from Jinja and it would be a few hours before we arrived, even though we told her multiple times. Anyway, we finally arrived and loaded as many bundles as we could into the Cruiser and Delica (each bundle holds 50 nets). As the sun was setting off in the distance, we realized we had to hire a truck for the remaining 5000 nets. Off we went on our drive home to Kyabirwa. As we caught up with Moses, our Delica driver, and did not see the truck anywhere in sight, I started dreading the possibilities of losing those other 5000 nets. It made me realize that we did put complete strangers on a truck with about $32,000 worth of mosquito nets.

Francis jumped on the gas and passed Moses, in search of this missing truck. Annie and I sat there, crammed in the front seat with our eyes on the lookout. We caught up to a truck with white bundles in the back; it was a sign of relief until we realized it was the wrong truck. When driving in the dark, big, white bags of rice look very similar to bags of nets. By the 5th truck we reached, we finally saw our bundles of nets still packed in the very same truck; we were relieved.

It was a good 15-hour day. Fortunately, some strong local men did not mind the extra work by the time we got the clinic at 9:30 PM. The shed is now packed to the brim and it is hard to even close the door. Although it was an expensive day of fuel, drivers, and village helpers, I was very relieved to have the 7000 nets back in our possession. We will see how long until we run out again.

Obama! Obama! Obama!

I normally avoid discussing politics with everyone, especially on an online blog. However, I decided to go for it anyway, so here it is.

It has been interesting to watch the United States elections from the other side of the world. With the 11-hour time difference between Uganda and the west coast, I sat around Tuesday night watching CNN. I finally had to go to sleep to distract myself as much as I could, receiving occasional text messages with an update on the election. Ohio, Florida, Virginia….I jumped out of bed and ran to the nearest TV. I found myself surrounded by Ugandans, and one by one, everyone worked his or her way into the room with an anxious look on his or her face. It was an international crowd of Obama supporters sitting together at 7:00 AM in the tiny village of Kyabirwa, Uganda; we had representatives from Uganda, Australia, England, Ireland, Canada, and only a few of us from the USA. We were relieved, excited, and exhausted as we listened to Obama’s victory speech in Chicago. It was an emotional morning here in Uganda; maybe there is hope in this world. On my walk to the clinic, countless Ugandan friends were as excited as I was. “Obama! Obama! Obama!” they chanted. I sat in the car on the drive to our net sale with my ears glued to the BBC radio. Some years down the road, I wonder when we will ask each other, “Where were you when Obama got elected?” Seeing it from Uganda has given me a different perspective. Obama’s picture has been on the cover of every local newspaper for the last few days. I have seen Ugandans wearing Obama shirts, or even trying to buy a shirt off of a mzungu. His name was even written on the back of a matatu. The world is watching, and now, the world is celebrating. People danced around the streets of Jinja on Wednesday night to celebrate the elections from a continent away.

Unfortunately, Obama has a mess to clean up: the financial crisis, two wars, the Bush Administration. It will not be an easy road to travel, especially living up to these high expectations. However, in his speech in Chicago, I believe he reminded us of the reality: this is not something he can do alone. As Gandhi said, “Be the change you wish to see in the world.” Although I believe American politics and citizens struggle to follow this concept, it is a good sign that we, as Americans, could stand up and take the first step: vote for change. Yes we can!

Back in Uganda

Hello again from Uganda. It is funny how some things never change; sometimes it feels like I never left. On the drive to Bujagali on Wednesday, one year after my last arrival, I was somewhat surprised how many old friends I saw. Maybe not surprised at seeing everyone again, but somewhat flattered they all remembered me. It makes me feel somewhat wanted and missed, something I never thought would happen. When looking back on the last 6 months in the US, I did not feel settled there at all. This is where I actually had a “home” and a bed that I slept in most nights. I chose to live in the back of a truck for my time in the US; it made it possible for me to finish with school in Washington, work as a multi-day river guide in southern Oregon, road trips to Idaho and California, and then paraglide back in Washington. However, as my time was coming to an end, I became tired of being on the road all the time. I was tired of meeting new people and saying goodbye. I was tired of not knowing where I was going next. I was tired of being alone.

Countless people have said, “Morgan, you are lost” since I returned. In Ugandan terms, this just means you have not seen someone for a while. But maybe I have really been lost. I was totally overwhelmed when returning this spring. I had work plans for the summer, but then life was totally open ended. I had ideas, but nothing set in stone. When this job came up, I decided to go for it. However, I admit that I was second-guessing my decision; it is always tricky going back to the same place and not having expectations. Fortunately, I am aware that this time is a totally new trip: I have a new job with more responsibilities and more stress. It is exciting and scary at the same time. I have been going over everything with Annie and I am glad I will be able to work with her until she leaves in mid-December. I have a lot to learn and I know I will still mistakes, but working with Annie will make this process a bit smoother.

Deep down, I know this was the right decision; I am passionate about public health and traveling. I enjoy living simply, which is much easier to do here than being surrounded by the consumerism of the United States. I am totally guilty of it as well. People have nothing, and they are still happy here; it reminds me about what truly matters.

Aside from training, we have had some more amusing days as well. The day after arriving, I went back to Kampala with one of our patients with non-Hodgkins lymphoma. She was going back for another round of chemotherapy, but it turns out the oncologist only works Monday to Wednesday; we turned around and came home. Then of course, we were supposed to have a net sale today, but we drove there and the mobilizer decided to cancel the session due to the rain. So I guess there has been a lot of driving without much accomplishment. I am not giving up yet though; we are still getting things done, just slowly, slowly. It is a bit refreshing to be back on Uganda time.

Six Months of Update

Sometimes it is hard to believe 6 months have passed. I have said this many times before, and maybe it is because I seem to take my life in phases of 6 months. I look back on my time since returning this spring and it is somewhat blurry. I finished up with Evergreen and received my pretty little piece of paper saying I have a Bachelors of Science. I put that degree to work by guiding on the Rogue River a bit, and I managed to squeeze in private trips down a few more amazing wild and scenic rivers: the Illinois, Middle Fork Salmon, and the Grand Canyon. I did a little climbing in the Olympics to enjoy the heavy spring snow pack, and then learned to paraglide this fall. I now have my pilot’s license for paragliding and it has been a good challenge to do something completely new; I was hooked on day 1. Aside from all the adventures, the last 6 months have been a bit sobering; I have made new friends and lost others along the way. A few days after helping teach a Swiftwater Rescue course, our friend died kayaking the Green River; he and his boat disappeared into a nasty sieve and did not submerge until the water dropped 6 days later. The river is always forgiving, until it is not. It was a terrible 6 days of feeling helpless, sad, and frustrated. I was reminded of everything my WEMT instructor, Tom Clausing, taught me about wilderness rescues and recoveries. Sure enough, Tom was killed 6 weeks later in a helicopter accident while bringing in a patient from the Grand Canyon; he was a flight medic for the park service. I have been reminded of the fragility of life and being down in the canyon made me feel so small and insignificant (in a good way). On the bright side, both Mike and Tom died doing what they loved. On a happier note, I was able to attend the wedding of my dear friends, Karl and Tara. It was a great excuse for a trip out to Jackson, Wyoming and a long weekend reunion with my mzungu “Ugandan family.” Plus, it was a great 3 days of celebration for the bride and groom. It is funny how we all bonded together so well in Uganda, and in all honesty, we spent a considerably short amount of time together. However, it felt like much more and it was great to see the strong connection between all of us again. Jim and Sheri are back in the States figuring out their next “home,” Shannon is still based in Bozeman, Anna had just returned from Uganda and is off to Nepal soon, and Karl and Tara are now starting their next phase of life together. As for me, I am at my next phase of life as well. I will be returning to Uganda at the end of the month to take over Annie’s job as the manager of Soft Power Health. It is for a somewhat indefinite amount of time, but I have committed to work through next summer. I am excited to get back, but it always seems to be a bittersweet return. I will leave behind some good friends, but when I really think about it, some of my closest friends are the ones out living the life and following our passions: we avoid desk jobs, we get our hands dirty, we play hard, and we have a little fun and adventure while we can. Be well, dear friends. I will try to keep everyone updated, but occasional emails and updates from all of you are much appreciated as well. Happy days.

Back in the US...

Paved roads, running water and electricity, driving on the right side of the road, stop lights, pasty skin, everyone is speaking English….what is this? I am spotting countless mzungus, and it reminds me of driving around with Francis on “mzungu capture” in Kampala. However, now there are mzungus everywhere. I packed up my things and felt on the edge of tears; it is amazing what sunglasses can hide. I just wanted to bundle up in fetal position and escape – change my flight again and stay just a bit longer. I was just starting to pick up some work for guiding – with Nile River Explorers and Adrift – and then my day came to leave. Anna extended her stay again and is now working for Kayak the Nile. As I sat in the car driving to Entebbe, I watched the sun rise to the east and wondered if I would make it back. It will be refreshing to be somewhere else, and back into the multi-day river trips. The whitewater is not nearly as exciting as the White Nile, but guiding 4-day Rogue trips is far more fulfilling and rewarding. It is hard to believe that 6 months ago I was packing up and off on my way to Uganda. I had few expectations; the door was wide open and ready for whatever was to come. Sometimes it feels like it was just yesterday, but also ages ago. As I said before, I was definitely settled in Uganda, probably far more than I have felt in a long time.

Now I am back here in the States, unsure of the future plans. I am finishing up with school things and trying to put together a presentation to represent the work and experience I had in Uganda; however, no words can ever tell the true tale. It is one of the hardest things about traveling and trying to share these experiences. So what did bring me back? I was asked a few times to extend my ticket and guide for the busy summer season, but I suppose finishing up with Evergreen would be a good thing to do, along with a private MF Salmon trip in July, and a Grand Canyon trip in August. Now after that, maybe go back for some work on the White Nile before it is long gone, or meet up with some long lost friends on a trip to Nepal this September. Only time will tell.

My Last Goodbye

I remember when I first got here and told myself I probably would not want to raft guide here; the responsibility of paying customers was intimidating with the big water and excess carnage. However, it has been a lot of fun to get back on the sticks again and pick up some work here on the White Nile; I also needed to keep myself busy for my last few days and I am reminded of how much fun guiding can be. And I am getting paid for this? Now I might actually be able to make it back to the States, although it is tempting to stay longer and keep working for the busy summer months. The group of Inner City Kids from Upward Bound in New York arrived here on Sunday evening. They have come for their weeklong spring break to volunteer with Soft Power Health and a day of rafting on the Nile as well. Unfortunately, I fly out during the middle of their trip, but luckily, I was able to see Rosanna again, one of the chaperones I have worked with over the years, and a few returning kids from years before. Again, it is short and sweet, but such an eye opening experience for these kids, most of whom have never left the city of New York. Coming to rural Uganda, or even the wild and scenic Rogue River in years past, is definitely a change of scenery.

I rallied some of the boys to come along for my last Silverback run before flying out tomorrow morning. The idea of leaving still seems surreal. As I carried my boat up the hill, with my back to the depressing construction site of the dam, I could not help but wonder if I will ever see this section of the river again. I hopped on the back of the boda-boda with Ronald driving me home; I am still not ready to leave. This is the most settled I have felt in years. After spending so much time here, it would be hard to never come back and see all the friends and connections I have made over the last 6 months. I have tried to say my goodbyes to everyone I know, especially my dear friends and co-workers at Soft Power Health; they have all been so generous and willing to take me under their wings at the clinic.

I am never very good at goodbyes. I guess I do have some things to sort out back “home” in the States. At least I might have my foot in the door now, either with Nile River Explorers, Adift, or Kayak the Nile. Plus, I am leaving my kayak here, so it might be my excuse to myself to come back sometime down the road.